MADISON'S 
METHOD. 



UBRARY OF CONGRESS, 
nr T 5" 5 ^ 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



A'i 



MADISON'S METHOD 



BY- 



BREAST OR SHOULDER MEASURES, 



■AND 



Operated with the Ordinary Square or with a Graduated Scale or Graduated Square. 



A SYSTEM OF PERFF.CT PROPORTIONS FOR THE zWERAGE 
FORM OF ALL SIZES, FROM 24 TO 50 BREAST. 



'^^' .^'"xT^" 




f?/^ J:0. MADISON. 




PUBLISUED BY: 

^BS J]SrO. J. MITCHELL CO., 

NEW YORK. 
188S. 



•v^ 






Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1884, bj' 

J. O. MADISON, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 



CA /6 _^367 



John Poi-HKMrs, 

Piiiitev and Mf'g Stationer, 

lOa Nassan St.. N. T. 



INDEX. 



PAGE. 

Preface - , 5 

Introduction - 6 

The Measures 7 

Division Method, sizes 33 to 41, D. B. Frock 8 

Four Button Cutaway, by same - _ 10 

Sizes above 41, Frock, by same _.... 12 

" 33 to 41, Sack, " 14 

" above 41. '' " 16 

" below 33, ^' " 18 

Overcoat, by same .. 20 

The Scale Method— Sizes 33 to 41, D. B. Frock _ 22 

Dress Coat, by same 24 ■ 

Sizes above 41, Cutaway Frock 26 

'• 33 to 41. Sack, by same ,. 28 

" above41, '• " 30 

" beloAv 33, " " 32 

Overcoat, by same 34 

The Square System —The Square : 3() 

" —The Framework 38 

Four Button Cutaway, by same 40 

Cutaway, small waist, by same . 42 

Fat Man' s Frock, by same 44 

Sizes 33 to 42, Sack, by same 40 

" above42, " " 43 

" below33, " " 50 

Overcoat, by same ,^2 

Sleeves 54 

Skirt, D. B. Frock 56 

' ' Cutaway 58 

" Dress Coat....^ 60 

Collars (32 

Breast and Waist, same size, Clerical 64 

How to take the Shoulder Measures 66 

To Draft by Shoulder Measures, Division Method _ . 68 

" " " " Scale " 70 

" " " " Square " 72 

How to Use the Upper Shoulder Measure — Upper Slioulder Larger 74 

Upper Shoulder Smaller 76 

Fat Man's Sack j^o 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



PREFACE. 



rr^HIS work is offered to tlie trade with a great deal of pride. In the first place, 
-L it is believed to be of unusual practical value ; and in the second, its publica" 
tion is a very couviuciug evidence of the popularity- of the many other works of the 
authoi'. Unless the profession had liberally purchased his previous productions and 
expressed its approval of them, it is quite cei'tain the trouble of preparing this book 
would not have been taken, nor the expense of its publication incurred. 

A man who is comparatively unknown may risk much for the hope of glor}- : 
but the author of this work has been so long known to the trade, has written so 
much of its literatui'e, has been so energetically hated by a few, and been made to 
feel the gratitude of so many for what he has done, that whatever longings he mav 
have had for professional glory were laid to rest long ago. The pride, however, 
with which his father's high reputation inspires him, and which naturally results 
from the pleasing consciousness of having done a vast amount of work which the 
profession has pronounced good, would prevent him from publishing anything he did 
not honestly believe of value for the sake of gain, or from publishing an3-thing, how- 
ever meritorious, which he did not believe would sell. 
He has made no failures yet and does not intend to. 

His pi'ofessions of love for his fellow laborers have never been profuse, but he 
has never been illiberal in giving his ideas and methods in the Journals with which 
he has been connected, nor has he ever been niggardly in the practical assistance he 
has freely rendered those who needed it. 

Acts speak louder than words ; and if the Author has not won the right to 
speak upon technical questions with a great deal of positiveness and of speaking the 
truth about the absurd chatter of some who assume to be authorities, then he pleads 
guilty of many impertinences and acknowledges that he has been pi-esump- 
tious. 

This is a queer preface, but it is wiitten because of an impression which many 
have that the Author is a sort of iceberg in his intercourse with tailors and a mer- 
ciless ci'itic of aspirants to sartorial fame. The truth is, he is neither. While he is 
often reserved in conversation and does not seek popularity by a display of personal 
friendship which he does not feel, nor through favor or flattery, he endeavors to prove 
by acts that his interest in the welfare of his profession is as great as that of any 
man who lives ; and while he has often writteu strongly against manifest errors, and 
boldly condemned presumptions ignorance, he has never been unjust, nor has he ever 
made an unprovoked attack. This much about himself he has written here, because 
he considers this the master work of his life, and believes it will live and be of value 
to the profession long after he shall have Joined the " great majority." 

He does not ask the trade to purchase this work as a favor to himself, but sim- 
ply offers it with his honest indorsement, staking his reputation upon its merits, and 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



believing it will be worth more to every tailor who purchases it than the price 
asked. 

He neither invites nor fears criticism, and will not notice the carping of any one 
who is evidently ignorant oi' stupidly prejudiced unless to demonstrate his folly and 
teach him his littleness for his own benefit and in the interest of the profession. 

Thanking his friends for their innumerable expressions of approval and hoping 
to merit their repetition, it is with pleasure and satisfaction that this long Pi'eface is 
written by THE AUTHOR. 



INTRODUCTION 



EXPERIENCE has taught me that the System which is the most valuable to 
the skillful cutter, is one which gives right proportions for the average form 
of all sizes, and it has been my purpose in this work to give a System that will do 
this. 

The fault with proportional systems generally is that they make the large sizes 
too large and the small ones too small ; as a rule, also, they give too long a back for 
large and too short a shoulder for small sizes. 

These faults I have endeavored to remedy in the System given in this work. 

It will be found, I think, on examination that I have succeeded in doing this 
in a simple and self-evident manner. 

Although I give three Methods in this work, they are, in fact, but one System 
and produce the same results. 

The first method given is by divisions of the breast measure, and is worked by 
the ordinary Square. 

The second is by a Scale, which accompanies this book. 

The third is by a Square, which is prepared for the purpose of facilitating 
the process of delineating. 

My purpose in giving the first method is to make those who adopt my System 
independent of any graduated Scale or Square ; in giving the second, to enable them 
to draft with fewer lines and greater ease and rapidity ; and in giving the third, to 
reduce the System to its simplest possible form. 

The Square required for the thii'd Method is not included in the price charged 
for the book, but will be furnished as cheaply as possible to those who desire it. 

The Drafts produced by the three Methods are practically alike, so that those 
who learn either the first or second do not need the Square, in order to properly 
work the System. 

The square is a convenience and not a necessity. 

In order that this System may be more useful than it otherwise would be, I 
have given full directions for taking the shoulder measures and drafting by them. 

Every one who adopts this system should study the three methods with equal 
care, but under any circumstances should thoroughly master the first. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



THE MEASURES. 



ALL the measures required are the length to natural and fashionable waists, the 
full length, the sleeve length, the breast and waist. 
No special directions are necessary to take these measures, except that the 
breast should be taken close under the arras and straight around the body, over the 
largest part of blades. 

The breast and the waist measure I always take while standing behind my 
client, because in this way 1 can more easily carry the tape over the blades, and be- 
cause it is more convenient, as I am standing behind the man I am measuring when 
I am ready to take it. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



DIVISION METHOD. 



FROCKS. 

Sizes Fkom 33 to 41. 

DIAGRAM A is the diaft of a Double Breasted frock and was produced by the 
followiug measures : 

17 uat. waist. \ 36 breast. 
18^ fash, waist, j 32 waist. 
Commence by squaring lines A, P and A, Gr. 

From A to B is always 5^ inches. Square up from B. From B to C is 1 cl- 
inches. Draw a line from A to C. 

From A to D is ^ breast, add I inch and square up to E. 

From A to F is half breast, add 2i inches to G. His half way between G and A. 
I is ^ breast from G, and J is -1^ breast from H. 

From H to K is the same distance as from A to G, or for the size given 20^ 
inches; that is, 18 as to F and 2.^ as to G or 20^ altogether. 

Point L is half way between K and A. M is half way between L and A. N is 
half way between A and M. Get natural and fashionable waist lengths to O and 
P and squai'e out from points N, M, L, O and P. 

Fi'om I to R is i breast and i inch. Sweep for front of scye, from I by point, A. 
Sqiiare down for width of back from J, and draw a line from S to E. 
From L to T is half breast on the Division of Halves and from I^ to U is half of 
full breast. From U to V add 2 inches. Draw a line from J through T to waist. 

Now on each side of the * at waist divide half the difference between half the 
breast and half the waist, as follows : 

Half breast 18 
Half waist 1(5 



The difference 2 

Half of 2 is 1, therefore 1 inch is divided on each side of *. From * to Y, then, 
is I inch, and * to W is the same. From Y to 1 is half waist on Division of Halves, 
(8 inches) and from W to 2 is the same, add 2 inches from 2 to 3. 

Shape the back as represented as to taste or style. The widths used on dia- 
gram are 1^ above and 1 inch below notch at 4, and 2^ inches at waist. 

From 4 to 5 is the same as from O to 1. Shape sideseam of sidebody, reducing 
a small seam at 6 and cui'ving gracefully through 5. 

Cut out the back and get length of sidebody to 7. Shape bottom of sidebody to 
run into the line squared from P. Square down from T. 

From the small square on waist line mark each way the same distance as from 
* to W and Y, as from square to 8 and square to 9. Shape imderarm cut. 

Square across from 7 as line 7, 10 and draw line 11, 11 one inch below line 7, 10. 

Place point E of back on point I with tlie diagonal line E, S exactly covering 
line A, G, and mark across shoulder, as shown by broken line. 

Shape gorge to R, and shape scye to touch sweep, sinking it A inch below the 
breast line. Shape shoulder raising at 12 from f to ^ inch. Shape front from R, add- 
ing ^ inch at V, and passing through point 3 to 11, 11. 

Draw a line from 12 to 13, this gives the bottom for cutaway coats; for double 
breasted shape half way between 10 and 11 as represented. 

For the lapel mark If inches from R to 14, and draw a line from 14 through 3. 
Get length to 14 by the length from 3 to R. Make lapel to fancy, the average pro- 
portions are 2^ at top, 2f at breast and 2iat bottom. Take out a V at 15. This 
completes the draft. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 




10 3IADIS0N'S METHOD. 



DIAGRAM B. 



THE draft for a Four Button Cutaway Coat on opposite page was produced by 
the following measures: * 

17 nat. waist. ) 36 breast. 

19 fash, waist. j 30 waist. 

Commence by squaring lines 1, 12 and 1, 3. 

From 1 to 2 is half of full breast, 18, and 2 to 3 is 2^ inches alwa5-s. Point 4 is 
half way between 1 and 3. Point 5 is + breast from 3. Point ti is i bi'east from 4. 

Point 7 is o^ inches from 1 in all cases. 

Squaie up from 7, 7 to 8 is 1^ inches. Draw a line from 1 to 8. 

Point 9 is ^ breast from 1 and point 10 is I inch from 9 in all cases. Square 
up from 10 and make width of top of back at point where it touches line 1, 8, as at 11. 

Point 12 is found by the distance from I to 3, applied fi'om point 4. From 1 
to 2 is 18 and 2 to 3 is 2A, therefore 1 to 3 is 20i inches, this amount, 20i is applied 
from 4 to 12 as shown by broken line. 

Point 13 is half way ))etween 1 and 12. Point 14 is half way between 1 and 
13. Point 15 is half way between 1 and 14. 

Sc[uare aci'oss fi'om 15, 14 and 13. Apply natural and fashionable waist 
lengths, 17 and 19, and square across as shown. 

Square down to breast line from point 6, and draw a line fi'om 16 to 11. 

Sweep down to Iji'east line from point 5 by point 1 for front of scye. 

From Lto 17 is half of full breast and 2 inches. From 13 to 18 is half breast of 
divisions of halves, or 9 inches. Dra'w a line from 6 down through 1 8 to waist line, as to *. 

Now half the breast is 18 and half the waist 15, the difference is thi-ee inches, 
half of this is 1^. We therefore divide 1^ inches equally on each side of * 

From * to 19 is | and * to 20 is f, making 19 to 20 a distance of li inches or 
half the amount of diffei-ence between half breast and half waist. 

From 20 to 21 is half waist on Division of halves and from 19 to 22 is the 
same ; add 2 inches from 22 to 23. 

From 17 to 24 is H inches and from 23 to 25 is the same. 

Shape back, curving for neck from 1 to 11, raising shoulder seam above line 14, oi' 
notch to fancy, say 1:^ inches and commencing the side seam, say 1 inch below the 
notch. Shape back scye to center, dropping it A inch below the breast line. Make 
the back at waist any width desii'ed ; in the draft given it is 2:^ inches. Reduce 
from O to O same as from 2 1 to back seam and shape side seam of sidebody. 

Get the length of sidebody by the side seam of back, as to 26. 

Square down fi'oin 18 to waist. On each side of point marked with a dot and 
squai'e mark f inch oi' the same distances as indicated by * to 1 9 * to 20. Shape 
bottom of sidebody to Just above hip line and shape under arm cut as represented. 

Square down from 17 as shown by broken line. Square across from 26 and 
draw line A, A one inch lowei' down. Where the broken line crosses line A, A as 
at 27, make a point and draw a line fi'om it to 28. Draw a line from 24 to 25. 

Cut out the back and place point 11 at point 5, with line 11, 16 exactly cover- 
ing line 1, 5. Mark across shoulder as shown by broken line. 

From 5 to 29 is :^ breast and i inch. Shape gorge to 29 ; shape shoulder, round- 
ing up f to^ inch ; shape scye as shown touching the sweep ; take out a small V at 
29 and shape lapel, curving fiom 30, which may be any width desired, in this case 
Ij inches, gradually into 24. 

Space buttons and cut the front away from the lower one as represented. 

On the draft given the break point is 3A inches from 30, and the buttons are 3^ 
inches apart. Take out a small V at 31 and the draft is complete. 

The crease line, it may be well to state, is drawn from a point I inch in advance 
f point 5. 



o 



MADISON'S ^METHOD. 



11 




12 MADISON'S METHOD. 



FROCKS. 

Sizes above 41. 

DIAGRAM C is the Draft of a Double Breasted Frock for a fat man by the fol- 
lowing measures : 

The measures by which diagram was produced are as follows : 

18 nat. waist. ) 50 breast. 
20 fash, waist. ] 54 waist. 

Commence by squaring lines 1,12 and 1, 7. 

For all sizes above 41 the shoulder should be relatively longer than for sizes 
ranging from 33 to 41. This extra length is provided as follows : From 1 to 2 is 
16f inches in all cases (16f is the distance for side of neckfor a 41 breast from point 
1). From 1 to 3 is 9^ inches always. J)raw a line from point 3 through point 2. 
From point 2 allow { inch for each size, commencing at 41 up to the size ilesired. 

To make this clearer, call point 2,41, then add ^ for 42, 2 quarters for 43, three 
for 44 and so on. 

For the size we are drafting point 4 is 9 quarters or 2^ inches from point 2. 

Square back from 4 to 5 by the back seam line. 

Square down from 4 to 6. Point 7 is ^ breast from 6. Point 8 is half way between 
1 and 7. Point 9 is -I- breast from 8. 

From 1 to A is 5^ inches in all cases. Square up from A. A to C is 1^ inches 
in all cases. Draw a line from 1 to C. 

Point 11 is ^ breast from 1, add ^ inch from 11 and square up to D. Apply the 
distance 1, 7 from 8 to 12. Point 13 is half way between 1 and 12. Point 14 is half 
way between 1 and 13. Point 15 is half way between 1 and 14. 

Apply natural and fashionable waist lengths and square across. Square across 
also from points 15, 14 and 13. Point 16 is half breast on the division of halves 
(12^). Apply breast to E and add 2 inches to F. 

Square dowii from 9 to 17 and draw a line from 17 to D. Draw a line from 9 
through 16 to * at waist. Sweep down for front of scye from point 4 by point 1. 

The half waist is 27, and the half breast 25, the waist is 2 inches" larger than 
the breast ; half this amount, 1 inch, is divided on each side of *, making it | from * 
to 18 and i- inch from * to 19. 

From 18 to 20is half of waist, (13|) and 19 to H is the same. H to I is 2 inches. 

Square down from 1 6 and mark on each side of point marked with a small square the 
distance from *tol8 and * to 19. Through these points from under arm seam of 
sidebody and forepart. 

It will be observed that the process of applying waist measures is reversed when 
the waist is larger than the bi-east, and the sidebody and forepart are drafted to over- 
lap, making it necessary to paste or pin a piece to the pattern in order to complete it. 

Shape the back and cut it out. Place point D at point 4 with the line D, 17 
exactly covering line 4, 5, and mark across the shoulder as shown by broken line. 

Shape the slioulder, rounding up from ^ to f inch. 

Shape scye to touch sweep. On sizes below 41 the scye is dropped A inch, but 
on larger sizes it is raised above the normal depth (indicated by broken line) half the 
amount that the shoulder is raised above line 1, 7. 

From 4 to 21 is 5" breast and A inch. Shape gorge. From 22 to 23 is the same 
distance as fi'om 20 to back seam. Get length of sidebody by the back and squai'e 
across from 24. Draw a line, as L, L one inch lower down, for length of front. 

Add ^ inch from F and shape front through this point from 21 to 25. 

Shape bottom as represented, taking out a V i inch wide. 

The lapel is formed by mai'king out If inches from 21. Draw the seam edge 
straight, or gently curve it to touch at waist and to show as slight space at 25. The 
widths of lapel shown are, 2^ at top, 3^ at breast and 21 at bottom. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



13 




A. 



14 MADISON'S METHOD. 



SACKS. 



D 



Sizes from 33 to 41. 

lAGRAM D is a draft for a single breasted Sack and was produced by the fol- 
lowing measures : 

17 uat. waist. ) 36 breast. 
29^ lengtli. ) 32 waist. 



Commence by squaring lines 1, C and 1, 7. 

From I to 4 is 5^ inches for all sizes. Square up from 4. Point 5 is 1^ inches 
from 4 for all sizes. Draw a line from 1 to 5. 

From 1 to 6 is half breast. 

From 6 to 7 is 2A inches. 

From 7 to 3 is ^ breast. 

Point 8 is half way between 1 and 7. 

Fr®m 1 to 10 is ^ breast, add 5 inch for all sizes and square up. 

From 8 to 12 is the same distance as from 1 to 7, or for this size, 20^ inches. 

Point 13 is half way between 1 and 12. 

Point 14 is half way between 1 and 13. 

Point 15 is half way between 1 and 14. 

Get waist length to A and full length to C. 

Square across from points 15, 14, 13, A and C. 

From 3 to D is i breast and i inch. 

Fi'om 13 to E is half breast. 

From E to F is 2 inches. 

From F to H is I5 inches. 

From 13 to L is half breast on Division of Halves. 

Draw a line from 9 through L to the waist line. 

Sweep down from 3 by point 1. 

Square down from 9. 

Draw a line from M to 11. 

The difference between half breast and half waist is 2 inches; half this, 1 inch, is 
divided on each side of * at waist. 

From 17 to 18 is half waist (8 inches) on Division of Halves and 16 to Nis the 
same, add 2 inches from N to O and 11 inches from O to P. 

Draw a line from H through P and square down from P. The front runs mid. 
way between these lines, as line R. 

Mark in from A ^ breast and square down 

Shape the back and cut it out. 

From S to T is J inch less than from A to 18. 

Shape side seam of fore part. 

Take out from under arm from A to f inch according to style desired. 

Place point 11 on point 3, with line 11, M exactly covering line 1, 7 and mark 
across shoulder. 

Shape gorge and scye and raise shoulder seam from f to ^ inch over prominent 
part. 

Shape front and finish. 

A good guide for front of side pockets is i from sweep to I, add ^ inch and 
square down. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



15 




16 MADISON'S METHOD. 



SACKS. 



Sizes above 41. 

DIAGRAM E is the draft of a fat man's sack and was produced by the following 
measures : 

IS waist length. [ 48 breast. 
32 full length. j 54 waist. 

Commence by squaring line 1, C and 1, 9. 

From 1 to 2 is 16f inches and from 1 to 3 is 9^ inches for all sizes above 41. 

Draw a line from 3 through 2. 

Count 2 as 41 and for each additional size add \ inch. 

Thei'e are 7 quarters added on this draft to point 4, which bi'ing it up to 48. 

From 1 to 5 is 5^ inches for all sizes. Square up from 5. From 5 to fl is H inch. 

Draw a line from 1 to 6. 

Point 7 is I breast from- 1, add for all sizes .V inch and square up to 8. 

Squai'e down from 4, and go forward ^ breast to 9. 

Point 10 is half way between 1 and 9. 

From 10 to 11 is i breast. 

From 10 to 12 is the same distance as from 1 to 9. 

Point 13 is half way between 1 and 12. 

Point 14 is half way between 1 and 13. 

Point 15 is half way between 1 and 14. 

Get waist and full lengths to A and C. 

Squaie aci'oss from 15, 14, 13, A and C. 

Sweep from 4 by 1 . 

Squai'e down from 11. 

Diaw a line fi'om D to 3. 

Point 16 is half breast, on Division of Halves on square, from point 13 

From 13 to 17 is half breast, add 2 inches to 18 and li inches from 18 to 19. 

Draw a line from 11 through 16 to the waist line. 

Divide half the difference between the half breast and half waist equally on 
each side of *at waist. Half breast is 24, half waist is 27, the difference is 3, half 3 
is H, therefore * E is J and * F is f inch. 

From E to H is half waist on Division of Halves and F to I is the same, add 2 
inches from I to L and li inches from L to M. 

Di'aw a line from 19 through M and squai'e down from M. Line N for run of 
front is half way between these lines. 

Shape the back, hollowing at H f inch, and making ^vidth a trifle less than ^ 
breast, as to O, at the waist. 

Take out at O the ftill amount shown from A to H, and shape side seam of fore- 
part, lapping for large sizes half as much at bottom as is taken out at O. 

Square line R from point 4. 

Place 8 of back on point 4, line 8, D exactly covering line 4, R and mark across 
shoulder. 

From 4 to S is J breast and ^ inch. 

Shape gorge and scye. The scye should be raised half as much above the 
normal, which is i inch below t)reast line, as the shoulder is raised above line 1, 9. 

Shape shoulder, lounding up from i to f inches. 

Place the nick about ^ inch back of point S and omit the V. 

Shape front as shown, hollowing opposite top button. 

The front of side pocket is found by J breast and ^ inch forward from sweep, 
from point thus obtained square down. 



MADISON'S METHOD 



17 




18 MADISON'S METHOD. 



SACKS. 



D 



Sizes below 33. 

lAGRAM F is a draft for a boy's sack aud was produced by the following 
measures : 



12 natural waist. | 26 breast. 
20 full length. j" 24 waist. 

Commence by squaring lines 1, I and 1, 5. 

From 1 to 2 is 1 3f inches and from 1 to 3, is 4 inches for all sizes below 33 
breast. 

Draw a line from 2 to 3. 

Point 2 is for a 33 bi'east, now measure back on line 2, 3, for each size f inch as 
marked, and square down from size required as to 4. 

From 4 to 5 is ^ bi'east. 

Point 6 is half way between 1 and 5. 

Point 7 is -1- breast fi'om 6. 

From 1 to A is 5^ inches for all sizes, square up from A. From A to B is 1| 
inches. Draw a line from 1 to B. 

Point 8 is 1^ breast from 1, add ^ inch from 8 and square up to 9. 

From 6 to C is the same distance as from 1 to 5. 

D is half way between 1 and C. 

E is half way between 1 and D. 

F is half way between 1 and F. 

Get natural waist and full lenoths to H and I. 

Square across fi-om F, E, D, H and I.' 

From shoulder point to 10 is | breast and I inch. 

Sweep down from shoulder j^oint by point 1. 

Square down from 7. 

Draw a line from 1 1 to 9. 

Fi'om D to L is half breast on the Division of Halves. 

From D to M is half of full breast, add 2^ inches from M to N and 1 inch from 
N to O. 

Draw a line fi-om 7 through L to waist line. 

On each side of * at waist divide equally half the difference between 13, half 
breast and 12, half waist, the difference is 1 inch, half of which is ^ inch, therefoi-e 
P is J and R is ^ inch from *. 

From li to S is half waist aud from P to T is the same, add 21 inches from T to 
U and 1 inch from U to W. 

Draw a line from O thi'ough W, and square down from W. The run of front is 
lialf way between these lines. 

From H to 12 is ^ breast, square down from 12. 

Shape the back, holloAving ^ inch at H. 

Shape side seam of forepart, taking out from 13 to 14 the amount shown from 
S to H 

Cut out the back and place point 9 on shoulder point line with 9, 11 ex- 
actly covering a line squared from shoulder point, as from 26. 

Shape gorge and scye, raising scye above normal dejith indicated by dotted line 
half as much as the shoulder is raised above" line 1, 5. 

Shape shoulder raising over prominent part ^ to f inch and finish front to style 
or fancy. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



19 




20 MADISON'S METHOD. 



OVERCOATS. 

For sizes ahove 41 and below 33 the shoulder is raised as explained and illus- 
trated on preceding pages. 

Diagram G is for an overcoat. The solid lines repi'esent a Fly-front, the crossed 
lines a Double Breast, and the circled lines a Single Breast Button through overcoat. 

The draft was produced by the following measures taken over the coat : 
18 natural waist. \ 40 breast. 
40 full length. j 36 waist. 

Commence by squaring lines 1, B and 1, 7. 

From 1 to 2 is ^\ inches and from 2 to 3 is \\ inches for all sizes. Draw a 
line from 1 to 3. 

Fi'om 1 to 4 is ^ breast, add \ inch and square up to 5. 

From 1 to G is half breast, add \L\ inches from 6 to 7. 

Point 8 is half way between 7 and 1. 

Point 10 is i from 8. 

Point 9 is ^ from 7. 

From 8 to 11 is the same distance as from 1 to 7. 

Point 12 is half way l^etween 1 and 11. 

Point 13 is half way between 1 and 12. 

Point 14 is half way between 1 and 13. 

Get lengths to A and B. 

Square across from points 14 13, 12, A andB. 

Fi'om 9 to C is J breast and \ inch. 

Sweep down fiom 9 by point 1. 

Point S is half breast on Division of Halves. 

Draw a line from 10 through S, to waist. 

Square down from 10. 

Draw a line from O to 5. 

From 12 to V, is half of full breast, add 2^ inches to 15. 

For Fly front add 2^ as to solid line for stitched and 2^ inches for bound 
edge, placing the button line | inch back from 15. 

For Double Breast add 34 as to crossed line for stitched or \ inch less for 
bound edge, placing the button line 1^ inches back from 15. 

For Single Breast to button through add 1^ inches as to circled line and 
place the buttons on line 15. 

Divide equally on each side of * at waist half the difference between the, half 
waist and half breast ; as the breast is 20 and waist 18, there is a difference of 2 
inches ; 1 inch, therefore, is divided on each side of *, as \ inch * D and the same * E. 

From D to F is half waist and from E to H is the same, add 2^ from H to I 
and add from I to L whatever amount has been added from 15. 

Di-aw a line fi'om outside breast point through L, and square down from L, as 
line Y. Half way between these lines the front is run as shown by solid line. 

Point W is ^ breast from A. Square down from W. 

Shape back, hollowing at A a good f inch. 

Cut out back and place point 5 at 9 with line 5, 12, exactly covering line J, 7, 
and mark across shoulder, shape gorge, shoulder and scye, raising the shoulder at 
prominent part from \ to f inch and dioppiugscye \ inch below the breast line. 

Take out at W \ inch less than the distance from A to F, and shape side 
seam of forepart. 

Make under arm cut, say f inch wide; of course, the size of this cut depends 
greatly on closeness of fit desii'ed. 

The front of pocket is found by \ breast and \ inch from front of scye to P, 
squaring down from this point. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



21 




32 MADISON'S METHOD. 



THE SCALE METHOD. 



THIS Method produces the same results as the Division Method. It is somewhat 
simpler and enables a cutter to make a draft with less trouble and in less time. 

FROCKS. 

kSlZKS FROJI 3.S TO 41. 

DIAGRAM H is a draft for a double breasted frock and was pi'oduced by the 
folloAving measures : 

17 natural v aist. \_ 36 breast. 

18A fashionable waist. ) 32 waist. 

Commence by drawing lines A, 14 and A, 2. 

From A to B is 5^ inches for all sizes. Square up from B. B to C is H inches. 
Draw a line from A to C. 

A to D is 1^ breast, add I inch and square up to line A, C and shape top of back. 

Place end of Scale at B and mark at the breast size on Scales 1 and 2. 

Place end of Scale at A and mark at breast size on Scales 3, 4 and 5. 

The Scales used are all marked on the draft. 

Square across from 3. 4 and 5. 

Square down fi'ora 1 to <1 and draw a line from 6 to O. 

Sweep down from 2 to the breast line by point A. 

From 2 to 7 is I lireast and i inch. 

From 5 to 8 is the breast size, add 2 inches to 9 and square down from 9. 

Point 10 is half breast on Division of Halves. 

Draw a line from 1 tlirough 10 to waist line as at '"■. 

Whatever half the difference is between the half breast and half waist is to be 
divided equally on each side of *. The breast is 18, the waist is 16 the difference 
is 2, half 2 is 1. From * to 11 is, therefoi'e, I inch and from * to 12 is the same. 

From 12 to 13 is half waist (8) and from 11 to 15 is the same, add 2 inches from 
15 to 16. 

The distance from 13 to 14 shows the amount to be taken out between the back 
and sidebody, and that between 11 and 12 the amount to be taken out under the arm. 

Shape the back and cut it out. 

Mark from 17 to 18 the distance from 13 to 14 and shape the side seam of side- 
body. Get length to 1 9 by the back. 

Square down from 10, and take out on each side of point marked by a small 
square the amount indicated by points 11 and 12, dividing equally on each side of 
square. 

Shape bottom of sidebody. 

Square across from 19 and draw a line one inch lower down as line E, E. 

Shape bottom to pass midway between line E, E, and the one immediately 
above it. 

Place point O on point 2, witli line O, 6 exactly covering line A, 2, and mark 
across the shoulder. 

Shape goi'ge, scye and shoulder, touching the sweep with scye and rounding up 
tlie slioulder | to i inch. 

Add A inch to point 9 and shape front from 7 through 16 to waist seam. 

From 7 to 20 is If inches. 

Shape lapel. The generally accepted proportions for regular sizes are 2| inches 
at top, 2| at breast and 2^ at waist seam. 



MADISON'S METHOD, 



23 




24 MADISON'S METHOD. 



DRESS COAT. 



D 



lAGRAM I. This draft is by the followiiis? measures 



17 nat. waist. ] 30 breast. 

18i fash, waist. f 32 waist. 

Commence by squaring lines A, H and A, 2. 

From A to B is 5|- inches for all sizes, square up from B. From B to C is 1:^ 
inches always. Draw a line from A to C. 

From A to D is |, add | inch and square up to E. 

Take the Scale and placing the end at B, mark at the breast size by Scale 1 for width 
of back, as at point marked 1 and by Scale 2 for shoulder point, as at point marked 2. 

Place the end of Scale at A and mark at breast size on Scales 3, 4 and 5, as at 
points marked 3, 4 and 5 on draft. 

This finishes the usefulness of the Scale. 

Make points at natui-al and full waist lengths as at F, and H. 

Square across from 3, 4, 5 F and H. 

Square down from 1, to I and draw a line from I to E. 

Sweep for fi'ont of scye from point 2 by point A. 

From 2 to L is ^ breast, (The ^ inch is not added for Dress Coats.) 

From 5 to M is half breast on the Half Divisions on ordinary sqiiare, and from 
5 to N is half of full breast, add 2 inches to O. 

Draw a line from 1 through M to natural -^vaist. 

On each side of * at waist divide half the difference between half breast and 
half waist, thus : 

Half bi'east 18 
Half waist 16 

The difference 2 

Half of 2 being 1, we divide 1 equally on each side of * which gives ^ inch * 
P and i inch * E. 

E, to S is half waist and P to T is the same, add 1 inch from T to U. 

Shape fi'ont from L through O and U to bottom. 

Shape the back. The average width of back scye and at the bottom is If for 
Dress Coats. 

Shape back. 

Shape side seam of sidebody, curving it evenly to mid waist, taking out between 
S and V the amount between S and F. 

Cut out the back' and get length of sidebody by it. 

Shajie bottom of side body as shown. 

Shape underarm cut, taking out at W the amount between R. and P. (For Dress 
Coats, or in fact any other where a light side body is desired, the line squared from M 
to waist n)ay be dispensed \vith and the cut, W, located to taste. This, of course, 
within reasonable limits.) 

Shape bottom of forepart, taking out a small V. 

Place A of back on jsoint 2 with line E, I exactly covering line A, 2, and mark 
across shoulder as shown by broken line. 

Shape gorge and scye. 

"Sweeji from L by U. 

W is If inches from L. 

Curve the seam edge of lapel to U, and make the lapel widths, say If at top 2^ 
at breast and 1^ inches at waist seam. 

Extend lapels 1^ inches below waist seam and finish as represented. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 




26 MADISON'S METHOD. 



FROCKS. 

Sizes above 41. 

DIAGRAM J. The measures by which this draft for a fat man's one button cut- 
away frock was made are as follows : 

18 nat. waist. | 50 breast. 

30 fash, waist. I 56 waist. 

Commence by squaring lines A, 2 and A, H. 

From A to B is 5^ inches for all sizes. Square up from B. From B to C is 
1| inches. Draw a line from A to C. 

From A mark in ^ breast add ^ inch and square up to D for width of top of back 

Place end of Scale at B and make points at breast .size by Scales 1 and 2, as- 
at points on draft marked 1 and 2 and square up from 2. .Also make a point at 41 on 
Scale 2 as at point marked O for sizes above 41. 

E is 9^ inches from A for sizes above 41. 

Draw a line from E through O to P (point P is junction of line E, O and short 
line squared up from 2.) 

Square a line from point P, as line F. 

Place end of Scale at A and make points at breast size on Scales 3, 4, 5 as at 
points marked 3, 4 and 5. 

Get natural and fashionable lengths to G and H and square lines from points 3, 
4, 5, G and H as represented. 

Square down from 1 to I, and draw a line from I to D. 

Sweep from point P by A to L for fi-ont of scye. 

From P to M is i bi'east and I inch. 

From 5 to 6 is half of full breast, and from 6 to 7 is 2 inches. 

Point 8 is half breast on Division of Halves. 

Draw a line from 1 through 8 to * at waist. 

Divide equally on each side of * one half the difference between the breast and 
waist ; as the breast is 25 and the waist 28 there is a difference of .3 inches, half three 
is 1^, therefore f is placed on each side of * as at 9 and 10. 

From 9 to 11 is half waist on Division of Halves and 10 to 12 is the same. 
Add 2 inches from 1 2 to 1 3. 

Shape the back as represented or according to style or fancy. 

On this draft the shoulder seam is If above and top of side seam 1^ inches 
below the notch, and the width at waist is 2| inches. 

Mark from 14 to 15 the same distance as from 11 to G and shape side seam 
of side body reducing at 1 6 one seam only. 

Cut out the back and get the length to 17 in the usual way. 

Square across from 17 and draw line N, N one inch lower. 

For a double breasted frock, shape front as shown, adding ^ inch from 7. This 
line commences at M, is hollowed to the break line and then rounded through 13 ta 
the bottom, line N, N. 

Square down from 8 to the waist. 

On each side of point marked with a small square, place the distances shown by * 9 
and * 10. 

Through these points shape lines for under arm cut. 

(The pattern of forepart or side body will have to be pieced, of course.) 

Shape bottom as represented, taking out two V's, one about | and the other ^ 
inch wide at the mouth. 

Place point D on point P, line D, I exactly covering line P, F and mark across 
shoulder as shown by broken line. 

Shape gorge and scye as represented. Shape shoulder, rounding over prominent 
part ^ to I inch. 

This completes the draft. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



27 




2S MADISON'S METHOD. 



SACKS. 



D 



Sizes from 33 to 41. 

lAGRAM K. This draft of a straight front single breasted sack was made by 

the following measures : 

17 ) T ,1 36 breast. 

Of., > lengths. on • i 

29^ j *= 32 waist. 

Commence by squaring lines 1, 7 and 1, 10. 

From 1 to 2 is 5^ inches for all sizes. Square up from 2. From 2 to 3 is IJ 
inches always. Draw a line from 1 to 3. 

From 1 to 4 is ^ breast, add ^ inch and square up to 5. 

Place end of Scale at 2 and mark at breast size on Scales 1 and 2 as at points 6 
and 7. 

Place end of Scale at 1 and mark at breast size on Scales 3, 4 and 5, as at points 
8, 9 and 10. 

Square across from 8, 9 and 10. 

Get natural waist and full lengths and square across. 

From 7 to 16 is i breast and i inch. 

Sweep for front of scye from point 7 by point 1. 

Square down from 6 and di'aw a line from 5 to 14. 

From 10 to 11 is half breast on Division of Halves and from 10 to 12 is half 
of full breast. 

From 12 add 2 inches for making and 1^ for button stand as to 13. 

Draw a line from 6 through 1 1 to the waist line. 

Divide on each side of * at waist the half difference between the half breast and 
half waist, this makes * 17 a half inch and * 18 the same. 

From 17 to 19 is half waist on Division of Halves and from 18 to 22 is the 
same. From 22 add 2 inches for making and 1^ for button stand as to 23. 

Shape the back as represented or to style or fancy, hollowing at 19 natural 
waist J inch, and making the width to 20 a third of breast, more or less. 

From 20 to 15 is ^ inch less than from 19 to straight line. 

Shape side seam of forepart. 

Cut out the back and place point 5 on point 7, with the diagonal line 5, 14 ex- 
actly covering line 1, 7, and mark across the shoulder as shown by the broken line. 

Shape gorge to 16. Shape the shoulder, I'aisiug about i inch over prominent 
part. Shape the scye as shown. 

Draw a line from 13 through 23 and square down from 23. Shape the front to 
run half way between these two lines as shown by 24. 

From sweep in front of scye to 21 is 5^ breast, add ^ inch and square down for 
front of pocket. 

Make under arm cut a quarter inch less in width than from 17 to 18, and finish 
according to style. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



29 




30 MADISON'S METHOD. 



FAT MAN'S SACK. 



Sizes above 41. 
"T^IAGRAM L. The measures by which this draft was made are as follows : 

17^ natural waist. | 44 breast. 
31 full length. ) 48 waist. 

Commence by squaring lines A, H and A 7. 

From A to B is 5^ inches for all sizes. Square up from B. From B to C is 1^ 
inches. Draw a line from A to C. 

From A to D is 1^ breast, add ^- inch and square up to E. 

Place end of scale at B and mark at breast size on Scale 1. 

Point F is 16f inches from point A, for all sizes above 41. 

Mark down from A 9^ inches for all sizes above 41, and draw a line from this 
point through F, and on this line mark from point F, ^ inch for each size above 41, 
as for the measure by which we are drafting, ^ count 42, f count 43 and f count 
44, as at H. Or obtain point H as explained for Diagram J. 

Place end of Scale at A and mark at breast size on Scales 3, 4 and 5, as at 
points marked 3, 4 and 5 ;. mark also at natural waist and at full length, as at 6 and 7. 

Square across from A, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7. 

From H to I, is ^ breast and ^ inch. 

Square down from point 1 for width of back and di'aw a line from K to E. 

Sweep for front of scye from point H by point A. 

From 5 to M is half breast, (22) and point L is half way between 5 and M. 
From M to N is 2 and N to O is 14 inches. - 

Draw a line from 1 through L to waist line. 

The waist being 4 inches larger than the breast we take a J inch for each inch 
and divide equally on each side of *, or, to make it clearer, we take half the differ- 
ence between the drafting sizes of breast and waist and divide it equally on each 
side of * at waist. The amount to be divided beina; 1 iuch, we locate P i- and R 4 
inch also from *. 

From P to S is half waist (14) and R to T is the same, add 2 inches from T to 
U and U from U to V. 

Draw a line from O through V and square down from V, half way between 
these two lines run the front, as line X. 

Shape the back, reducing at 6 three-quarters of an inch and making the width 
at 8 ^ breast or a trifle less. 

The back pitch is always placed at 9. From W to Y is the same as from S to 6. 

Shape side seam of forepart, springing out at 10 as much as W, Y, is less than If 
inches. 

Place E of back on Point H, with the diagonal line E K exactly covering line 
H, 11, (line H, 11, is squared from H) and shape gorge and scye. Remove the back 
and shape shoulder, raising at 12 from |^ to | inch for large sizes. 

Shape front as represented, or accoi'ding to style. 

For front of side pockets mark from 13 to 14 a fourth of breast and square 
down. 

For further instructions about fat men's sacks see. Diagram B E. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



31 




\ 



32 MADISON'S METHOD. 



YOUTHS' AND BOYS' SACKS. 



D 



Sizes below 33. 
lAGRAM M. This draft was produced by the following measures : 



11 natural waist. ] 24 breast. 
18i full length. j 24 waist. 

Commence by squaring lines 1, 2 and 1, 14. 

From 1 to 2 is 13| inches, anCx from 1 to 3 is 4 inches for all sizes. Draw a 
line from 3 to 2. 

From 1 to 4 is 5^ inches, and from 4 to 5 is l^ inches for all sizes. Draw a line 
from 1 to 5. 

From 1 to 6 is i breast, add i inch and square up to 7. 

Place end of scale at 4, and mark at breast size on scale 2 as at 8. Point 4 being 
the point fi-om which the Scale is used for all sizes, and 24 breast being end of 
scale, no point is made lij^ scale 1 for this size. 

Square up from 8. Square back from 9, as line 9, A. 

Place end of Scale at 1 and mark at breast size on Scale 8, as at 10. Scale 4, 
as at 11 and Scale 5 as at 12. 
■ Get lengths to 13 and 14. 

Square across from 10, 11, 12, 13 and 14. 

Sweep down from 9 by point 1. 

Square down from 4. 

Draw a line from 7 to 15. 

Point 16 is half breast from 12, on Division of Halves. 

Draw a line from 4 through 16 to waist line. 

As breast and waist are alike the * at waist is the starting point foi* establish- 
ins; waist size. 

From * to 17 is half waist and * to 18 is the same, add 2^ inches from 18 to 19, 
and add 1 inch from 19 for button stand. 

From 12 to 20 is half of full breast, add 2^ inches to 21, and add 1 inch from 21 
for button stand. 

Draw a line from C at breast through C at waist. 

Square down from C at waist. 

Half way between these lines run the front as line D. ' 

Shape the back, holloAving at 13 a half inch and making the width to E 
about ^ breast. 

From E to F is the same as from 17 to 13. Shape side seam of forepart. 

Cut out the back and place point 7 at 9 with line 7, 15 exactly covering line 9, 
A, and mark across shoulder. 

Shaue scye and shoulder of forepart, raising slightly at H. 

Tiom 5) to I is i breast and ^ inch. Shape gorge and finish. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



33 




'vf 



34 MADISON'S METHOD. 



OVERCOATS. 



DIAGRAM N. This is tbe draft of a heavy double breasted overcoat with the 
front for a fly front marked upon it in broken lines. The measures are as 
follows : 

18 I , ,, iO breast. 
42 [lengths. 3g^^^j^^_ 

The breast and waist measures taken over the coat. 

All the points are obtained in the same manner as for an under coat. The ex- 
planations, instead of being given in the letter press, are all plainly marked on the 
draft, with the following exceptions. The addition over half breast for all overcoats 
is 2i inches. For lap 4 inches are added, but anywhere fi'ora 3 to 4 inches may be 
added, accortling to style. Half of whatever is added is the distance button line 
should be placed back of the 2^ inch allowance. As 4 inches are added for this coat, 
the buttons are placed 2 inches back of point O. 

For a fly front add from 2 to 2^ from O, and set the buttons half as far back of 
O. 

Line C is placed half way between the line drawn from 4 through H and the 
line squared down from H. 

Between back and sidebody for a heavy coat such as this we take out f inch less 
than from E to D, and spring the forepart over the back from 1 to 1^ inches at bot- 
tom according to length or fullness desired. For a fly front or a close fitting over- 
coat the broken line is right; this line at waist is as far from the back, less J inch, as 
E is from D. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



35 




36 MADISON'S METHOD. 



THE SQUARE SYSTEM. 



THIS System is based upon the Division System already explained. 
It is very simple and obtains all the points and structural lines in the most direct 
manner possible, placing them at the same time so that they form actual boundaries 
and positive stations. 

The sizes are graded so as to produce a faultless model for any size desired from 
24 to 50 breast. 



The Square. 



PLATE O. This is a reduced copy of one side of the Square used, and shows all 
the scales except scale 8, ^vhich is on the short arm of the other side, and i* 
used for the front of scye. 

In drafting place the square on the paper with the short arm toward you and 
draw lines along the edges A, B, C and D, E, F. 

Only the sizes 24, 36 and 50 are marked on this reduced copy because of its 
small size. 

Having marked along the edges as directed, make points opposite the breast 
size required by all the numbered scales except 7. 

For instance, if the breast size is 36, make a point at 36 on Scales 1, 2 and 3 on 
long arm, as at A, B and C, and also at 36 on Scales 4, 5 and 6 as at points D, E, 
andF. 

Scales A and B are used only for sizes above 42 and below 33. 

Having followed these directions proceed as shown on Diagram P and explained 
in accompanying letter press. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



37 




<^' 



^ 



^ 6 






^ 



JWir 



CO 



ZJ^ 



50^ 



3i, 



ZJf> 



sa*- 
3io 



<0 • M 



B 



A 



38 MADISON'S METHOD. 



THE FRAMEWORK. 



Sizes Fkocks from 83 to 42, 

DIAGRAM P represents the points obtained as sliown on Plate O squared up, and 
others established. After removing the square, having made points at the 
size I'equired by scales 1 as at A, 2 as at B, 3 as at C, 4 as at D, 5 as at E and 6 as 
at F, the squai'e is turned over and the breast line from F squared out, on this line 
we mark at the size required on Scale 8, as at J. We square up from A and mark 
to G the size required by Scale 7. Now squai'e aei'oss fi'om D and E, and down 
from B to H. 

Draw a line from G to H. 

F to K is half breast and K to L is 2 inches. 

C to V is J breast and ^ inch. 

Square up from J. 

Get natural and fashionable waist lengths and scjuare across. 

I is half of half breast or 9 inches for the size we are drafting. 

DraAv a line from B tlirous;h I to M. 

Now take half the difference between the half breast and half waist and 
divide the amount equally on each side of M, thus: half breast 18, half waist 16, 
the difference is two inches; we therefore take half this amount, 1 inch, and divide 
it equally on each side of M, making M to O ^ inch and M to P the same. 

Mark fi'om O to R half of half waist, and from P to S the same, that is the 
lialf waist being 16, mark 8 from O to E, and 8 fi'om P to S. The distance from R, 
to back seam is the amount that is to come out between the back and side body. 

Square down from I. 

Add fi-om S to T 2 inches. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



39 




t fat 



40 MADISON'S METHOD. 



FOUR-BUTTON CUTAWAY. 



DIAGRAM R. This is tlie draft of a four button Morning Coat aucl shows the 
draft as finished after establishing the points as already explained. 

The measures used are : 17 natural waist, 36 breast, 18i fashionable waist, 36 
breast, 32 waist. 

As all the points are the same as foi' Diagram P and as they are marked with 
the same letters, the directions for obtaining them are not repeated. 

In shaping, first form the back curving to G, then shape the shoulder seam to 3, 
raising at 3 according to taste from 1 to li inches above the line for back pitch. 
Commence the scye at 3, which is about A inch from line B H, curving into the 
line B, H, and continuing to bottom of scye. Commence the side seam at 4 which 
may be located anj'where from f to 1:^ inches below the notch, which is on line E. 
Curve according to taste or fashion to 5. Making the width at 5 to -fancy, say 2^ 
inches. 

Now mark in from 1 to 2 the distance that it is from E, to back seam, and 
form the side seam of side body through point 2. At point the side body is re- 
duced i inch. 

Cut out the back and get the length to 7. 

Square across from 7, and mark down 1 inch from 8 for run of waist seam in 
front. 

Shape the uu'^ " ".im cuu, reducing on each side of point 'J the distance from 
M to O on one side and M to P on the other. 

Shape the bottom of side body to curve into the fashionable waist line. 

Place point G of back on point C with diagonal line G, H resting on the top 
line A, C and mark along the shouldei' seam. 

Remove the back and shape the shoulder, raising at 10 about f inch and 
hollowing a trifle near the neck as ''"p esented. 

Shape the gorge to V. 

Shape scye. 

From L to 11 is A inch 

Shape the front center line from V through 11 and T down to the waist seam. 
This is the line for a double breasted frock. 

For a single breasted Coat add H inches for lap from L and T and mark a line 
parallel with the line L, T as from 12 to 13. For a 4 button cutaway the front is 
merely cut away from the lower button as shown. 

At the end of collar take out a small V Just back of point V. 

Point V represents the end of gorge for a clerical coat. 

Take out a small V at 14. 

Directions for forming front for double breasted frock are given on Diagram H* 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



41 



o-j 




42 MADISON'S METHOD. 



SMALL WAIST. 



D 



lAGRAM S is the draft of a four button cutaAvay and was made by the follow- 
ing measures. 

17 nat. waist. ) 36 breast. 

18^ fash waist. f 30 waist. 



Commence by squaring lines A, C, and A 3. 

Mark at breast size ou scales 1, 2 and 3 as at points 1, 2, 3 on the top line 
and on scales 4, 5 and 6 on the back seam line. 

Square up from 1 and mark to 7 by scale 7. 

Square across fi om 4, 5, and 6. Get natural and fashionable waist lengths to 
B and C and square aci-oss. 

Turn the square over and mark from 6 to 8 by scale 8. 

Square up from 8. Square down from 2 to 9 and draw a line from 9 to 7. 

Point D is half breast from 6, on Division of Halves. 

Point 10 is half of full breast from 6, add 2 inches to 11, and from 11 add 1^ 
inches for button stand, as to 19. 

Square down from 11. 

Draw a line from 2 through D to * at waist. 

Divide equally on each side of * half the difference between the drafting 
breast and waist sizes; drafting breast is 18 and waist 15, the diiference is 3 inches, 
half this amount or 1^ inches is divided on each side of *; it is, therefore f inch 
from* to 12 and the same distance from * to 13. 

From 13 to 14 is half waist and from 12 to 15 is the same, add 2 inches from 
15 to 16 and U from 16 to 17. 

Draw a line from 19 to 17 for run of front. 

Erom 3 to 18 is J breast and ^ inch. 

Square down from D. 

Shape the back and cut it out. 

Place point 7 at point 3, with line 7, 9 exactly covering line 3, A and mark 
across the shoulder as shown by broken lines. 

Shape the gorge to 18 and form the scye as represented. 

From E to F is the same distance as from B to 14. 

Shape side seam of side body taking out a small seam only at the breast line. 

Get the length to H by the back and square acro.ss. Draw line I, I one inch 
below line H. 

Line I, I, and the line squared down from 1 1 give run of bottom. 

Divide equally on each side of point marked with a small square, the distance 
from 12 to 13 and shape under ai'm cut. 

Shape front and bottom as represented. 

This completes the draft. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



43 




44 MADISON'S METHOD. 



FAT MAN'S FROCK. 



Size above 42. 

DIAGRAM T. This draft combines a one button cutaway and a double 
breasted frock. The measures used are as follows : 

18 natural waist. ) 50 breast. 

20 fashionable waist. [ 54 waist. 

Commence as before explained, by marking along both arms of square. Now 
]nake points at the breast size, 50, on scales 1 and 2 as at A and B, and on scales 5 
and 6 as at C and D. 

Now on scale A at the lower end of square make a point at 50 as at E on draft, 
and move the end of square in to this point, keeping the angle at F, and square 
broken line. On this line make a point at 50 on scale 3 as at G on draft, and from G 
square the solid line G'"' On the broken line fi'om F to E mark at size required on 
scale 4 and square across as to W. 

Point 7 is by scale 7 from point A. 

Square by the back seam line from C and D, and get the waist lengths and 
square across. 

Establish front of scye by scale 8^ and get the breast and neck points as before 
explained. 

H is half breast, 12^. 

Draw a line from B through H to waist line. 

'J'he half waist being two inches larger than half the breast we have to divide 
one inch equally on each side of * at waist. 

From * to K is therefore h inch and * to L is the same. 

Now measure from K to M half waist, 13A, and fromL to N the same. 

Shape the back. 

O to P is the same as from M to back seam. 

Shape side seam and bottom of side body. 

Shape the under arm cut, lapping the forepart and side body at R and S 
tlie distance from L to K. 

The pattern of forepart will, of course, huve to be pieced to make the necessary 
iiddition. 

After cutting the back place point 7 at point G with the diagonal line exactly 
covering line G, * and shape gorge, shoulder and scye in the usual way. 

Add 2 inches to the breast as to TJ and the same amount to the waist as to Y. 

For a double breasted frock add ^ inch from U and shape front from W, as 
illustrated by broken line. 

For single breast add 1^ inches from U and shape as shown by heavy line. 

When the waist is more than 2 inches larger than the breast it is a good 
plan to take out two Vs as illustrated. 

The length of front is obtained in the usual manner except tliat it is somewhat 
longer as at Y on account of the prominence of the form at that point. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



45 




46 MADISON'S METHOD. 



SACKS. 



Sizes froji 33 to 42. 

DIAGRAM U represents a sack, 17 to waist, 29 full length, 86 breast, 32 waist. 
All the principal points are obtained as foi' a frock. 

The point at A is ^ inch from back seam, B is the waist size from C. The sup. 
pression from D to E is the distance from B to A, instead of from B to seam as for a 
frock. The width of back at the waist is usually ^ breast but is governed by taste 
or style. 

The cut under the ai'ni is made a quai'ter inch less in width than F to C. 

G is half waist from F and H is 2 inches from G. 

Add for the single V)reast 1^ inches from J to K and from H to L. 

Square down from L and draw a line from K through L. Half way between 
these lines which are marked M, N, run the front. 

W is 1^ breast from front of scye, square down from W for front of pocket. 

The double breasted sack is formed by adding 3 inches, more or less according 
to style from H and J and by marking the buttons half as far back of these points as 
the edge is from them. For example, the edge O, O being 3 inches from J, H, the 
buttons P, P are half that distance or 1^ inches back of points J, H, or 4^ inches al. 
together f rojn O, O. 

The fine double line shoi^-s a cutaway front. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



47 




48 MADISON'S METHOD. 



SACKS. 



Sizes above -42. 

"T^IAGRAM V. The measures used for this draft are as follows : 

18 ) T ,1 I 50 breast. 

31 j '^ ( o2 waist. 

All points except those marked are obtained as explained for diagram T. 

The half waist being I inch larger than half breast, we have to divide ^ inch on 
each side of balance line. From * balance line to 1 is therefore j inch and to 2 is 
the same. 

Now apply half waist, 18 from 1 to 3 and also from 2 to 4, at 4 add 2 inches as 
to 5. 

Shape back reducing at A f inch and making width at waist ^ breast or 
more or less according to fancy or style. 

From 6 to 7 is the same as from 3 to A. 

Spring forepart over back at bottom as far as 1 is from 2. 

Add 1^ inches for button stand at breast and waist as to 8 and 9. 

Square down from 8 and draw a line from 9 down through 8. 

Half way between these two lines mark the line for front as at 10. 

For double breast add 3 inches, placing the buttons 4J inches back from the 
edge, or half as far back of 5 and B as the line C, D is in front of these points. 

For cutaway front add a trifle at E. 

For further instructions about fat men's sack see Diagram B E. 



MADISON'S METHOD, 



49 




50 MADISON'S METHOD. 



SACKS. 



Sizes below 33. 

DIAGRAM W. This draft is that of a sti-aight frock sack oi- blouse for a boy. 
It was made by the following measiires : 

11 natural waist. ) 24 lireast. 
19j^- whole length. ] 23 waist. 

Points i, 2, 4, 5 and 6 are obtained as usual by scales I, 2, 4, 5 and 6. 

On Scale B at end of square mark at 24, as at B, and draw line B, C By this 
line square out and mark shoulder point by scale 3, as at 3 on draft. 

From 3 squai'e back to 4 by the back line. 

The shoulder of the forepart is obtained as usual except that line D is placed 
on line 3, 4 instead of the line squared from top or back. 

x\t the natural waist on back hollow I inch. 

The dift'ei'ence between half waist and half Iji'east being ^ inch, we divide | of 
this amount on each side of balance line at waist, as at E and F, each of which is ^ 
inch from balance line. 

From F to (t is i waist and E to H is the same. 

Reduce from L to M the distance from G to 11. 

Add from H 2 inches, the same as at the breast and draw a line from the breast 
point through waist point O. 

Square down from O. 

Now draw a line for I'un of front from O down half way between the lines P 
and R. 

Add U inches for button stand and form front as shown. 

Point 7, it may be well to say, is found by scale 7 from the line drawn from C 
to 3 

All sizes from 32 breast down ai'e drafted as above. 

On the 32 a small V may be taken out under ariii, but not for any smaller size. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



51 



^ 




52 MADISON'S METHOD. 



OVERCOATS. 



DIAGRAM Y is a draft for a Fly Front Overcoat. The draft is made in the 
same manner as the undersack except that 2| inches are added to breast and 
waist instead of 2, as from 1 to 2 and 3 to 4. 

Square down from 4 and draw a line from 2 down through 4. The front is 
placed midway Ijetween these lines as at 5. 

For fly add 2^ inches, and place the buttons half that amount back of the centre 
line, line 2, 4. 

When a wide lap is desired add for fly 2i inches or more, always placing the 
buttons half as far back of center line as the edge is in front of it. 

For double breasted add 3 or more inches ; if three inches, place buttons 1^ inches 
back. 

For front of side pocket go forward from scye I breast as to 6 and square down 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



53 




64 MADISON'S METHOD. 



SLEEVES. 



THE sleeve is drafted by the size of armbole, less ^ inch. 
Measure the armhole cai'efuUy along the edge, not allowing for seams ; if it 
measures 18i inches use 18. 

We will draft by 18. 

DiAOKAM A A. Couimenoe by squaring lines A, E and A, N. 

From A to B is ^ inch foi all sizes. 

B to C is Y^if and C to D is ^ scye. 

Square across from D. 

A to F is H inches for all sizes and A to E is A scye. 

Square down from E. 

Fi'om G to H is 4 scye. 

Draw a line from A to H. 

Sweep from A by point I. 

Shape top of outside as shown. 

Shape top of underside dropping f inch below the line at L. 

Get length to N and square across. 

From O to R is \\ inches and from R. to S is 64 inches for undercoats and 7 
inches for overcoats. Of course on extreme sizes the bottom should be made larger 
or smaller. 

Shape bottom as shown. 

Shape side seams, swelling at elbow f of an inch and hollowing at T f inch more 
or less according to style. 

Diagram C C. Obtain points B, C, D, E, F, H, and I, as explained for Diagram 
A A, and shape top of outside and inside sleeve. 

Get length and shape bottom as before explained. 

From G to R is 1 inch and fromG to S is the same. 

W and T are each \ inch distant from O. 

Square from S to R and continue top side to R. 

Shape under arm seam from R to T and from S to W. 

These changes can be varied to taste or style. As much as 2 inches may be 
added all the way down to the outside and deducted from the inside sleeve, if de- 
sired. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



55 





56 MADISON'S METHOD. 



SKIRTS. 



DIAGRAM D D, illustrates the method of drafting a skirt for a doublebr easted 
frock. 

Draw line A B, and square across from A.. 

From A to B is 9 inches and B to D is 2 inches for all sizes. 

Curve gracefully from A through C to D. 

Place side body to A and mark at E. 

Place forepart to E with the line squared from fashionable waist exactly cover- 
ing line squared from A, and mark along the bottom to F. Place lapel in a closing 
position and mark along the bottom to H. 

Square down through H. 

Get length to D, allowing ^ inch for fullness and make H, G ^ inch less than A, 
D. 

Finish as shown 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



57 




58 MADISON'S METHOD. 



SKIRTS. 



DIAGRAM EE illustrates the method of drafting a skirt for a cutaway. 
Square lines A, B and A, O. 
Squai-e from B and make C 2 inch from B. 
Curve gracefully from A through C. 
Place side body to A and mark at E. 

Place forepart to E with the line squared from fashionable waist exactly cover- 
ing line A, O and mark along bottom to the V, then drop to F ^ inch. 
Finish as represented. 



MADISON'S METHOD 



59 





60 MADISON'S METHOD. 



SKIRTS. 



DIAGRAM FF illustrates the method of drafting a skirt for a full dress coat 
Square lines A, B and A, O. 
Place side body to A and make a point at E. 

Place forepart to E with the line squared from fashionable waist exactly cover- 
ing line A, O and drop skirt 1 inch at F. . 

F to H is width of lapel below waist seam, usually 1^ inches, and must range 
exactly with run of front when in a closing position. 

Get length to M and draw a line for bottom parallel with run of top. 

Measure from A to F, and whatever the distance is use it as a working power- 

If it is 16, then H to I is 16 on Thirds and I to L is 16 on Twelfths ; M to N is 
16 on Thirds and ISTto R is 16 on Twelfths. 

Draw a line from L to R and shape as represented. 



IVIADISON'S METHOD. 



61 




p5 5^ 



62 MADISON'S METHOD. 



COLLARS. 



PLATE MM. 

DIAGKAM A shows a collar for a double breasted high roll frock, and is 
drafted as follows : Place the lapel in a closing position as shown and draw 
the break line to opposite end of hole from point 1, which is ^ inch in front of 
shoulder point. Make point 2 a quarter of an inch back of shoulder and draw crease 
line of collar from point 3 through point 2. Make the stand 1^ inches deep. Get 
length and finish as represented. If it is desired to have no daylight show between 
collar and lapel, the collar must be made to overlajt as shown. 

For Overcoats draft in the same manner, giving the stand a depth of 1| inches. 

DIAGRAM B shows a collar for alow roll double breasted frock and is drafted 
as follows : 

Place the lapel in a closing position opposite tlie point of roll, and mark point 1 
a quarter of an inch in frbnt of shouldei- point. Di'aw a Hue from 1 to 2. Make 
point 3 a quarter of an inch back of the shoulder point and draw the ci'ease line for 
the collar fi-om 4 through 3. 

Shape as represented. It will be seen that this collar is moi'e crooked than for 
Diagram A. 

Diagram C shows a collar for a short roll, either for a single breasted frock or 
sack. As it is drafted in precisely the same manner as already described no explana- 
tions are necessary. 

Diagrajm D shows a collar for a fat man. The break from 1 to 2 is obtained as 
explained above, but the crease line of collar is consideral)ly cui'ved from 1 through 
3 to 4. 

The stand is only f inch deep and the seam edge is concave from 5 to centei'. It 
is formed in this way for the purpose of throwing extra goods to crease line. 

Diagj4AM E shows a Prussian or Military collar. It is made to follow the gorge 
from 1 to 2, and is evenly curved from 1 to center. The stand is 1^ inches as 
usual. The leaf is made any width desired. 

Diagram F shows a stand up collar. It is usually about 1^ inches wide in front 
and H at the back It is hollowed a trifle at 1 and rounded a little at 2. 

Diagram G shows a wide collar for an overcoat. It is drafted to fit the gorge 
from 1 to 2, and from 2 to 4 it is considerably hollowed. It is well sprung out from 
5 to 6. This form throws sufficient goods to the outside edge to allow it to lie 
smoothly about the shoulders. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



(J3 




64 MADISON'S METHOD. 



BREAST AND WAIST OF THE SAME SIZE. 



DIAGRAM N. N. is by 40 breast and 40 waist and is introduced to show how 
waist points are established when breast and. waist are of the same size. 
Obtain points above waist line and * at waist by any one of the three methods 
given. 

Now as there is no difference between breast and waist, the waist measure is ap- 
plied directly from *. 

From * to A is half waist 10, and * to B is the same. 
Add 2 inches from B to C and, as usual, 2 inches from E to F. 
. For a clerical coat add 1 inch from C to D, from F to H and from I to L. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



65 




60 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



HOWTOTAKETHESHOULDER MEASURES. 



THERE are l3ut three shoulder measures required for any size or shajie. These 
are known as the upper, lower any balance measui'es. 
To obtain these measui'es iirst make a mark at the socket bone and another at 
the natural waist. 

To take the upper shoulder measure j^lace the end of tape at the mark at socket 
bone and hold it firmly in place Avith the finger of the left hand as illustrated on Fig. 
1, not with the thumb, as the measure cannot be conveniently taken if you do. Now 




carry the measure with the right hand around the arm, drawing it tight from the 
start, pressing it closely up under the arm, being careful that a loose shirt sleeve does 
not keep it away from the arm ; carry it straight from under the arm up totheleft 
hanfl, and catch it between the thumb and forefinger of that hand, still holding it in 
place with the fingers, as illustrated by Fig. 2. This leaves the right hand at lib- 
erty ; now place the open right hand upon your client's shoulder, and press it gently 




down if, as is frequently the case, it is hunched up ; also examine the tape to see if 
it is drawn tightly and is close to arm. Be particular to have it pass in a straight 
line from under the arm up to left hand and not in a curved direction as marked by 
broken line on Fig. 4. Place the fingers of the right hand on the first end of tape as 
illustrated by Fig. 3, and hold it in position, while with the left hand you cari-y the 
tape past the starting point, Fig. 4. This measure averages 25^ inches for an average 
36 breast, but it runs as small as 24 on very square shoulders and as large as 26^ 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



67 



for a long necked, sloping shouldered form. From 25 to 26 inches, however, is the 
ordinary limitation of this measure for a 36 breast. 

To take the ]>alance measure continue to hold the first end of the tape with the 
fingers of the right hand and drop the thumb upon it some three inches from where 
it leaves the arm as illustrated by Fig. 4. Now let go with the left hand altogether 
and pick up the tape with the left hand between the thumb of the right hand and 
where it leaves the arm, Fig. 5, and remove the thumb of the right hand. When 
you pick up the tape draw it tightly ; the idea is not to let it slip at all, in order 
that it will be just as tight or just as loose as the upper shoulder measure. Now 
carry the tape in a winding direction to the natural waist. If carried in a straio-ht 




line it will pass over the muscle under and a ti'ifle back of the arm and be too large. 
The object is to take this measure over that part of the body which will measure the 
least. This measure will average 23 inches for an average 36 breast and 25i upper 
shoulder, running as high as 24 for the same breast size if sloping shouldered and 
extra erect, and as low as 22 for stooping and high shouldered figures. 

To take the lower shoulder place the first end of tape opposite the centre of arm 




or about |- of the upper shoulder measure down from socket bone, see Fig. 7. Hold 
it firmly with the fingers of the left hand in the same manner as for the upper shoul- 
der measure, Fig. 1 ; carry it around the arm and up to left hand, catching it between 
the thumb and forefinger ; then place the fingers of right hand on first end of tape, 
and with the left hand carry the measure by the starting point, as illustrated. Fig. 7. 
" " inch less than the upper shoulder, but for very high 



This measure will average 



68 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



shoulders it will be larger, and for very sloping shoulders it will run as small as U 
inches less than tlje upper shoulder. ^ 

These measure^ are taken over the vest for an undercoat and over the under- 
coat for an overcoat. Lue uuuej- 





THE THREE METHODS 



-BY — 



SHOULDER MEASURES. 



TO MADISON'S METHOD. 



DIVISION SYSTEM. 

To Draft by the Shoulder Measures. 



Diagram O, O. 

THE draft js always made by the lower shoulder measui-e, and the neck raised 
and the shoulder lengthened or shortened by the upper shoulder as illustrated 
and explained on diagi'ams S S, T T. 

To find the breast size which corresponds with the lower shoulder proceed as 
follows : 

Subtract one from the shoulder, divide the remainder and add one, thus : 
Lower shoulder . . 25 Lower shoulder . . 29 

Subtract ... 1 Subtract ... 1 

Remainder . . 24 Again Remainder . . 28 

Add half ... 12 Add half ... 14 



Corresponding breast . 36 Corresponding breast . 42 

We will suppose that we have to draft a coat for a man whose lower shoulder 
is 26 and whose breast is 30. 

We first find, as explained above, what breast size will correspond with a 26 



shoulder, thus : 



26 
1 



25 



The corresponding breast measure being 37^ we use that size as the working 
power of the draft, and proceed as follows : 

Square lines A, G, and A, L. 

From A to B is 5| inches for all sizes, squai'e up from B. From B to C is 1^ 
inches always. Draw a line from C to A. 

From A to F is 18f or half of 37i, the drafting size ; add 2A inches to G. 

From G to 2 is J of ISf. H is half way between G and A. I is | of 18f, from 
H. D is l- of 18| from A, add | inch and square up to E. 

Fi'om H to K is the same as from A to G. L is half way between A and K. 
M is half way between A and L, and N is half way between A and M. 

Square across from N, M, L and waist lengths. The natural waist of this draft is 17. 

From 2 to 3 is J of actual hreast 36 with \ inch added. 

From L to P is half of drafting size, or 9f, that being half of 18f . 

L to R is half of actual hreast ; add 2 inches to L. 

Square down from I, draw a line from O to E, and draw balance line from I 
through P to waist. 

Divide half of half breast and w^aist difference equally on each side of '"' at 
waist, as to T, and U. 

T to V is half waist and U to W is the same ; add 2 inches to Z. For this draft 
the waist size used is 82. 

It will be seen that we have from K to V 2^ on this draft, instead of the aver- 
age amount, 2 inches, that the scye and shoulder are considerably advanced and that 
the scye depth is greater. The bi'east is, of course, flatter and the gorge compara- 
tively short. 

To apply the balance measure, add to it 1^ inches for making ; place half of upper 
shouldei' at sweep and breast line and measure to natural waist, taking out between 
back and sidebody all excess over measure. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



71 




72 MADISON'S ]VIETHOD. 



SCALE SYSTEM, 



By Shoulder Measuees. 



Diagram PP. 

FOR full directions for finding tlie breast size whicli corresponds -with the lower 
shoulder, see preceding page. 
The draft on opposite page is produced by a 25 lower shoulder, a 37 breast and 
a 33 waist. 

The breast size by which to draft is found by the following formula : 

25 
1 



24 
12 



36 
As 36 corresiDonds with a 25 shoulder we have to obtain our shoulder points by 



36. 



Square lines A, G and A, K. 

From A to B is 5| inches in all cases. Square up from B. B to C is 1| inches- 
Draw a line f i om A to C. 

From A to D is i of drafting breast, 18 ; add ^ inch and square up to E. 

Place end of Scale at B and mark by drafting size 18 on Scales 1 and 2 as at 
points F and G. ' 

Place end of Scale at A and mark at drafting size 18 on Scales 3, 4 and 5, as at 
H, I, and K. 

Square across from H, I, K and natural and fashionable lengths. Sweep for 
front of scye from G by point A. 

From G to L is i of actual breast size, 18i and i inch. 

Square do\\n from F. Draw a line from E to M. 

From K to N is half of drafting size, 1 8, that is K to N is 9 inches. 

Draw a line from F through N to waist. 

From K to O is half of actual breast, 18^ ; add 2 inches to P. 

The half breast being 18^ and the half waist 16^ we have a difference of 2 
inches ; half this being 1 inch, R is placed ^ and S A inch also from the ■•' at waist. 

S to T is half waist and R to U is the same ; add 2 inches from U to V. 

On this draft the suppression indicated from T to back seam is If inches or J 
inch less than the average. The scye and shoulder are further back, the back nar. 
rower, the breast broader and the scye depth less than for the regular 37 breast. 

To use the balance measure add l^inche; place half of upper shoulder at sweep 
and breast line, measure to natural waist, and take out excess indicated between back 
and sidebody. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



73 



CJ 




74 MADISON'S METHOD. 



SHOULDER MEASURE METHOD. 

{.By Graducited Square.) 

DIAGRAM R, R. 

DIRECTIONS for ascertaining how to resolve the lower shoulder measure into 
a corresponding breast size are the same as given for Division System. 
For the draft on opposite page the following measures were used : 
40 breast, 29 lower shoulder. 
The breast size to correspond w ith the shoulder is found by the following for 

mula: 

29 
1 



28 
14 



42 

We have, therefore to obtain our shoulder points by a 42 breast, and our actual 
bi'east size by 40 breast. 

Commence by squaring lines A, D and A, G. 

From A to B is drafting size, 42 on Scale 1. A to C is drafting size, 42 on Scale 
2. A. to D is drafting size on Scale 3. 

From A to E is drafting size, 42 on Scale 4. A to F is drafting size on Scale 5 
A to G is drafting size, 42 on Scale 6. 

Square up from B. B to H is drafting size on Scale 7. 

Square across from E, F, G and waist lengths. 

From G to L is drafting size, 42 on Scale 8. 

This finishes us with the Square. 

From G to K is half of drafting size, that is lOi inches. 

From G to M is half of actual breast; add 2 inches to N. 

From D to U is i actual breast and | inch. 

Square down from C and draw a line from J to H. 

Obtain points O, P, R, S and T, as usual. 

This draft is for a heavy shouldered, narrow chested man, and has a waist sup_ 
pression nearly l inch above the average. 

To apply the balance measui-e, add U inches for this method, place half of upper 
shoulder at L, measure to natural waist, and reduce between back and sidebody 
whatever the draft measures more than the measure calls for. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



15 




76 MADISON'S METHOD. 



HOW TO USE THE UPPER SHOULDER. 



DIAGRAM S, S. 

HAVING obtained all the regular points by any of tlie methods given, proceed 
as follows when the upper shoulder is larger than the lower : 

Add ^ of whatever araoiint the upper shoulder is largei- than the lower from A 
to B. If the lower shoulder were 25 and the upper 25^, from A to B should be J 
inch. Were the lower shoulder 26 and the upper 27, then A to B should be | inch. 

Point C should be raised the same as B. Shape from C to D as shown. 

Draw line E, F the same distance in front of I as B is from A, and draw line G, 
H the same distance above line A, I. 

Cut out the back and place point C at M, the point where lines E, F and G H 
cross, with the line C L where it crosses back at N resting on line A I, as at O. 

Raise the gorge at R the same amount that M is above I. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



11 




78 MADISON'S METHOD. 



HOW TO USE THE UPPER SHOULDER. 



DIAGRAM T T. 

HAVING obtained all the regular points by any of the methods given proceed 
as follows when the iipjjer shoulder is smaller than the lower : 

Reduce as from A to B half of whatever amount the upper is smaller than the 
lower shoulder. If the lower shoulder is 25i and the upper 25 then from A to B 
should be ]• inch, and if the difference should be 1 inch then A, B should be i inch 
or half that amount. 

Point P is obtained by the lower shoulder. Draw a line F G as far back of P 
as B is from A, and draw line H I as much below line A P as line F G is back of P 

Cut out the back and place point D on point 2 (point 2 is where lines F, G 
and H, I cross each other), with line DM at where it crosses side seam at N resting 
on line A, P as at O. 

Drop the gorge at L as much as line I, H is below P. 

Finish as represented. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



79 




80 MADISON'S METHOD. 



FAT MAN'S SACK. 



DIAGRAM B, E. 

AFTER cutting out the forepart for a fat man's sack, proceed as follows 
Cut down from A to B, and open the cut from A to C, as far as E is from H 
This, of course, throws surplus paper to the bottom as to L. Press this down flat and 
re-form bottom as shown by heavy line. 

The V marked O is either to be cut out or left as an outlet. 
This provides a pocket for the belly Avithout any manipulation on the part of 
the journeyman. 



MADISON'S METHOD. 



81 




